#45 - surfing

okay so it's an old picture but it's at the same beach and i look pretty much the same. we forgot to bring a camera this time. the last time i went surfing was probably july when i was here last. i always forget how much i love surfing until i am in the water paddling out against the incoming waves. i curse at myself for not being in better shape and wonder how long i'll last. the water was especially cold and it felt great. matt my surfing partner kept complaining about it but it was so nice!

i have this huge longboard. it's 9 feet long and i realized it's the most expensive thing i've ever bought. i only get to ride it a couple times a year and that's such a waste because it sits in my family's living room. i just enjoy it that much better when i come back. i actually enjoy the pain in my shoulders while i'm paddling! we were out there probably for 90 minutes or so but it went by so fast.

the waves were kinda getting choppy since we went kinda late but there was still plenty to ride. matt of course caught waves left and right. i had to rest a lot between waves/paddling to the right spot. it's amazing how different being in shape and being in surfing shape is. i was not. tomorrow i will wake up in pain but it will feel good.

most of the time when i am surfing, i'm either paddling out to where i need to be or sitting on my board. you have a lot of time to think and ponder life's big questions. usually a song gets stuck in my head and today it was "how bad do u want it" by tim mcgraw. i love that song. but i guess i thought a lot about why i don't live here. i know all the answers to that question but surfing really is one reason i'd move back. a lot would have to happen for me to want to move back but surfing would be a big reason. i'm not good at it but it's not something you need to be good at to enjoy. the time spent out in the water and the pure joy of surfing is unique and special and until you've gone surfing you would never know.