what is better than surfing? i don't know. the one thing i always need to do when i come back (besides eat everything in sight) is go surfing. i know, there is some good surfing on the oregon coast and it is still fun. but braving the freezing temperatures is just not my thing, plus not having a car, board, or wetsuit makes it that much more challenging to get out and surf. so i make it a point to let my friend matt know way ahead of time when i'll be back so we can go surfing together.
he goes to different places to surf but we always go out to white plains. it's not big waves or anything, which i think is why i'm comfortable there. there aren't a thousand people competing for a wave like in town. it's nice and laid back and even on a saturday wasn't too busy. the waves were small but were pretty clean. what made it even better was the purchase of a single-use underwater camera. we were catching waves left and right (more matt than i) and taking turns posing for the camera, which was pretty fun! the only thing is, matt has to practice his
action photo skills cause every pic of me was cut off somehow. haha it was fun though. it was nice to take my mind off all the sadness on this trip and in the past several months, surfing is nice like that. there is a lot of time to sit and wait for waves, reflecting on life. although matt and i go together, we don't really talk too much while we're out there. surfing is the closest thing to meditation that i do, and i don't do it very often but it sure feels good. when else do i have time to just sit in the sun, feet in the water, and relax? never. i've said before, there aren't many reasons why i'd want to move
back to hawaii because i love oregon, but surfing would be one. once i'm done with school and get some experience in the field, then i can think about coming back for a travel nursing stint. until then i have to be content with surfing once or twice a year and really making the best of it. soak up the rays, get a workout, and have a song stuck in my head, all while thinking about the good life.
what is better than surfing? i don't know. the one thing i always need to do when i come back (besides eat everything in sight) is go surfing. i know, there is some good surfing on the oregon coast and it is still fun. but braving the freezing temperatures is just not my thing, plus not having a car, board, or wetsuit makes it that much more challenging to get out and surf. so i make it a point to let my friend matt know way ahead of time when i'll be back so we can go surfing together. 
he goes to different places to surf but we always go out to white plains. it's not big waves or anything, which i think is why i'm comfortable there. there aren't a thousand people competing for a wave like in town. it's nice and laid back and even on a saturday wasn't too busy. the waves were small but were pretty clean. what made it even better was the purchase of a single-use underwater camera. we were catching waves left and right (more matt than i) and taking turns posing for the camera, which was pretty fun! the only thing is, matt has to practice his 
action photo skills cause every pic of me was cut off somehow. haha it was fun though. it was nice to take my mind off all the sadness on this trip and in the past several months, surfing is nice like that. there is a lot of time to sit and wait for waves, reflecting on life. although matt and i go together, we don't really talk too much while we're out there. surfing is the closest thing to meditation that i do, and i don't do it very often but it sure feels good. when else do i have time to just sit in the sun, feet in the water, and relax? never. i've said before, there aren't many reasons why i'd want to move 
back to hawaii because i love oregon, but surfing would be one. once i'm done with school and get some experience in the field, then i can think about coming back for a travel nursing stint. until then i have to be content with surfing once or twice a year and really making the best of it. soak up the rays, get a workout, and have a song stuck in my head, all while thinking about the good life.
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